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Whenever curating a roll of London’s finest restaurants, one might expect renowned award-winning establishments. Yet, tucked prominently among these culinary giants is a modest salonu situated in a distant part of northern London.

A Shocking Accolade

This small Turkish eatery, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a prominent culinary publication. The honour has left the owners completely shocked.

“I am completely surprised,” says the family member, referring to his family’s relentless work that led to their humble restaurant securing such a lofty spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular food hotspot, has retained much of its former charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking performance, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy space,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the cuisine, and this restaurant definitely excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a moist, juicy quality.

It is then tossed into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in slowly. Once the meaty mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, imparting it a deeper, more aromatic and not overly sweet flavour.

Outranking the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the top of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, comparable experiences at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

The Creed of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a role of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the traps of excess, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not train at fancy establishments. “I am really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a personal life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to resonate beyond its own doors. “In my opinion many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the wider importance of this gastronomic honour.